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 61 
 on: April 28, 2015, 09:22:38 am 
Started by squish - Last post by squish
My Tiger Barbs die after a few weeks? Why? I check the ph and try to keep it to their needs?  I also do water changes every month.

 62 
 on: April 20, 2015, 12:29:06 pm 
Started by squish - Last post by squish
Fish Illnesses

Just like any pet, fish can get sick too.  Here are some of the more common illnesses, and how to treat them.


Anchor Worms

Physical/Behavioral Signs or Symptoms:

    Scratching against objects by the affected fish.
    A protuberance of whitish-green threads from the fish's skin.
    Points of attachment are marked by inflammation.

Cause:
Introduced into aquariums by infected fish, young anchor worms are small crustaceans that burrow into the fish’s skin and enter the muscles. Here they begin to develop and release eggs before they die - leaving behind damage which can become infected.

Treatment:
Common methods include physically removing the parasite and cleaning the wound with an antiseptic like iodine. Also common is bathing freshwater fish in a seawater bath (35ppt) for about 5 minutes for multiple days until the parasite falls off.


Body Flukes

Physical/Behavioral Signs or Symptoms:

    Scratching against objects by the affected fish.
    Layer of mucus covering gills or body.
    Gills moving rapidly.
    Chewed on or eaten-away gills or fins.
    Reddened skin.
    Note: Pale fish with drooping fins, rapid respiration and/or hollow bellies indicate more extensive infestation.

Cause:
Undesirable environmental conditions—including poor water quality, overcrowding, and/or stress by incompatible species--creates conditions that can lead to destructive outbreaks. Flukes (flatworms approximately 1 mm long) are often present in aquariums but remain harmless under ideal conditions. Avoiding stressful conditions is a key to prevention, but once an outbreak occurs, prompt treatment is critical.

Treatment:
Tetra Parasite Guard® with praziquantel is effective but must be carefully administered per directions. One tablet per 10 gallons. Remove activated carbon and repeat after 48 hours; conduct a partial water change between treatments. Secondary infections are also common and can be treated with antibiotics or general cures like Lifeguard® or Fungus Guard®.



Gill Flukes

Gill Flukes

Physical/Behavioral Signs or Symptoms:

    Infected gills and skin.
    Similar to ich, but telltale sign is movement and possibly eye spots, something that is not found in ich. Use magnification lens to observe.
    Once gills are destroyed, fish will die.

Cause:
Undesirable environmental conditions—including poor water quality, overcrowding, and/or stress by incompatible species--creates conditions that can lead to destructive outbreaks. Flukes, which are flatworms usually about 1 mm long, are often present in aquariums but remain harmless under ideal conditions. Avoiding stressful conditions is key to prevention, but once an outbreak occurs, prompt treatment is critical.

Treatment:
Tetra Parasite Guard® with praziquantel is effective but must be carefully administered per directions. One tablet per 10 gallons. Remove activated carbon and repeat after 48 hours; conduct a partial water change between treatments. Secondary infections are also common and can be treated with antibiotics or general cures like Lifeguard® or Fungus Guard®.


Clamped Fin

Physical/Behavioral Signs or Symptoms:

    Fins are folded against the body and not fanned out as they should be.
    Listless behavior.

Cause:
Not indicative of one specific disease. Can be a reflection of various problems, including bad water quality and/or parasites. Important to first determine the specific problem in order to treat fish properly.

Treatment:
First test the aquarium water to review overall water quality and conduct a partial water change to ensure healthy conditions. If the clamped fins are the result of infections, a multipurpose treatment like Lifeguard® or Fungus Guard® are the first lines of treatment. Good practice of adding 1 tbs. aquarium salt per gallon will help prevent clamped fins.

*Always remove activated carbon before administering any treatments.


Dropsy

Physical/Behavioral Signs or Symptoms:

    Bloating.
    Protruding scales.

Cause:
A bacterial infection of the kidneys, which causes fluid accumulation or renal failure. It appears to create problems only in weakened fish. May stem from untidy aquarium conditions.

Treatment:
External treatments are challenging; preventative care with regular water changes, maintaining ideal aquarium chemistry and adding aquarium salt is highly recommended. Antibiotic injections or feed are most effective, but some wide spectrum antibiotics may help like Tetra Fungus Guard®.


Lice
Physical/Behavioral Signs or Symptoms: Red spots on fish indicating an inflammation.

    Fish are aggravated and restless.
    Usually fish will rub skin against aquarium glass or other objects in an effort to remove lice.
    Other telltale signs: Lice have eight legs—and resemble tiny pale crabs. They appear as flat, dark oval dots crawling on fish.
    Lice use suckers to attach to fish. Then they pierce the skin and feed on the host.

Cause:
Usually from fish that were living in an outdoor pond at one time and bringing them into an indoor aquarium. Also, fish lice can be introduced from wild fish that are added to an aquarium. Lice travel from one host fish to another, spreading bacteria and viruses, so once they’re in your aquarium, you must get rid of them.

Treatment:
Common methods include physically removing the parasite and cleaning the wound with an antiseptic like iodine. Also common is bathing freshwater fish in a seawater bath (35ppt) for about 5 minutes for multiple days until the parasite falls off, or using a formalin bath.


Fungus

Physical/Behavioral Signs or Symptoms:

    Initially, you’ll notice a gray or whitish growth in and on the skin and/or fins.
    Untreated fungus resembles a cottony growth.
    Eventually, as fungus continues to eat away at the fish’s body, the fish will die.

Cause:
Fish who develop fungus are already in a vulnerable state, the result of other serious health problems or attacks, such as parasites, a physical injury or a bacterial infection.

Treatment:
Many bacterial infections are misdiagnosed as fungal, so common medications include both a fungicide and antibiotics. Tetra Fungus Guard® contains malachite green and formalin; treat one tablet per 10 gallons once every 4 days until symptoms are gone. Remove activated carbon and conduct partial water changes in between treatments.


Gill Mites

Physical/Behavioral Signs or Symptoms:

    Gasping at the water’s surface.
    Gill covers that are partially open.

Cause:
Fish that are already infested by gill mites are brought into aquariums. The tiny mites stay on the fish’s gills, and attack the fish by feeding on blood and living flesh.

Treatment:
Tetra Parasite Guard® with praziquantel is effective but must be carefully administered per directions. One tablet per 10 gallons. Remove activated carbon and repeat after 48 hours; conduct a partial water change between treatments. Secondary infections are also common and can be treated with antibiotics or general cures like Lifeguard® or Fungus Guard®.


Hemorrhagic Septicemia

Physical/Behavioral Signs or Symptoms:

    A variety of different symptoms may occur, though some fish exhibit no external symptoms.
    Hemorrhaging of internal organs, skin and muscle.
    Bulging eyes.
    Bloated abdomens.
    Bruised-looking reddish tints to eyes, skin, gills and fins.
    Open sores.
    Abnormal behavior.

Cause:
Infection that is brought into aquariums by fish already infected with a deadly virus called Viral hemorrhagic septicemia virus (VHSV or VHSv).

Treatment:
There is no known cure for this virus. Sometimes treating secondary infections with wide spectrum antibiotics or general use treatments like Lifeguard® will reduce mortality. Add one tablet Lifeguard to each 5 gallons and treat 5 consecutive days. Remove activated carbon and conduct a partial water change in between treatments.


Ick

Physical/Behavioral Signs/Symptoms:

    Spots that resemble grains of salt or white sand on the skin.
    May be slightly-raised.
    Scratching against objects due to irritated skin
    Clamped fins.
    Gasping at the water’s surface.

Cause:
Usually attacks fish that are stressed, which can be caused by factors including rapid temperature and pH fluctuations.
 
Treatment:
Tetra Ick Guard®. Use one tablet per 10 gallons, remove activated carbon and repeat after 24 hours; conduct a partial water change between treatments. Repeat until symptoms clear. Secondary infections are also common and can be treated with antibiotics or general cures like Lifeguard® or Fungus Guard®. Consistent temperature and good water quality will help prevent infections, in addition to using aquarium salt.


Ragged Tail Fin

Physical/Behavioral Signs or Symptoms:

    A progressive deterioration of the tail and/or fins.
    Fins become frayed or their color may fade.

Cause:
A bacterial infection may cause this tail and fin rot in susceptible fish—those who are bullied or injured by fin-nipping tank mates—especially in aquariums with poor conditions.

Treatment:
First test the aquarium water to review overall water quality and conduct a partial water change to ensure healthy conditions. If the clamped fins are the result of infections, a multipurpose treatment like Lifeguard® or Fungus Guard® is the first line of treatment. Good practice of adding 1 tbs. aquarium salt per gallon will help prevent clamped fins.

*Always remove activated carbon before administering any treatments.


Tail, Fin and Mouth Rot

Physical/Behavioral Signs or Symptoms:

    A progressive deterioration of the tail and/or fins.
    Fins become frayed or their color may fade.

Cause:
A bacterial infection may cause tail, fin and mouth rot in susceptible fish—those who are bullied or injured by fin-nipping tank mates—especially in aquariums with poor conditions.

Treatment:
First test the aquarium water to review overall water quality and conduct a partial water change to ensure healthy conditions. If the clamped fins are the result of infections, a multipurpose treatment like Lifeguard® or Fungus Guard® is the first line of treatment. Good practice of adding 1 tbs. aquarium salt per gallon will help prevent clamped fins.

*Always remove activated carbon before administering any treatments.

Note: Please consult a local veterinary doctor to properly diagnose ailments and fine-tune treatments.

 63 
 on: April 20, 2015, 11:39:45 am 
Started by squish - Last post by squish
What is the aquarium cycle?

The aquarium cycle is not really a cycle in the true sense of the word but refers to the part of the nitrogen cycle that plays a vital role in our aquariums. All animals produce ammonia as a waste product of metabolization and this ammonia is toxic to these animals. For land animals, getting rid of ammonia is a simple matter of converting it to urea and expelling it from the body. It's a simpler process with more complicated results when it comes to our fish; instead of converting it fish expell ammonia directly into the water from their gills. This ammonia builds up in your tank water and becomes deadly over time. The aquarium cycle is the process of establishing a way for this ammonia to be converted into substances that are safer for your fish. In most cases, what this means in particular is establishing colonies of beneficial bacteria that convert ammonia to nitrite, which is also quite toxic to fish and then ultimately to nitrate which can be tolerated in much greater concentrations.

In every cycling method other than the live plant method, the steps to the cycle are as follows: as ammonia builds up, Nitrosomonas bacteria begin to build up on the surfaces of your aquarium including the substrate, any decor, the walls of your tank and most importantly, in your filter. These bacteria convert ammonia to nitrite. Nitrite is still quite toxic to fish but its presence promotes the growth of a second type of bacteria, Nitrospira,* which also live on your tank's surfaces. These Nitrospira bacteria convert the nitrite into nitrate. In the oxygen-rich environment of the freshwater fish tank, this is where the cycle ends as there is no aerobic (oxygen-friendly) bacterium that converts nitrate into harmless nitrogen gas. In non-planted tanks, we must manually remove nitrate with water changes but in heavily planted tanks, plants can absorb nitrate and prevent it from building up in our tanks. Luckily, nitrate is safe at low levels so water changes and/or plants can prevent it from ever building up to problematic levels. The entire process takes anywhere from 4-8 weeks although cycle lengths shorter or longer than this time frame aren't rare.

Why do I need to cycle my aquarium?

Ammonia is very toxic to fish and can kill them in a matter of hours or, in high enough concentrations, minutes. Exposure to even relatively low levels of ammonia can cause long-term health problems for our fish or cause them stress which weakens their immune systems, opening the door to a host of illnesses. Preventing exposure to ammonia is extremely important for the health of your fish so keeping them in an environment that processes their ammonia excretions into safer by-products is essential. A common mistake new fishkeepers make is to let their tanks run for a day or two before adding fish or even adding fish to newly set up tanks. Without the safety net of beneficial bacteria (or live plants) in place, ammonia levels quickly rise and fish become sick or die. Cycling the aquarium prevents these problems and ideally, a tank should be cycled before placing fish into it so that your pet fish are never exposed to harmful ammonia or nitrite.

How do I cycle my aquarium?

There are five methods of cycling your aquarium but whichever method you choose, your best friends during the cycle are patience and a good liquid test kit. Because cycling involves levels of ammonia, nitrite and nitrate in your tank, you need to be able to measure the quantities of these chemicals in your tank. Paper test strips are notoriously inaccurate so a liquid test kit is preferred. Apart from the patience and test kit, any cycling method relies on a source of ammonia in your tank. Without an ammonia source, beneficial bacteria won't colonize the surfaces of your aquarium so no matter how long you've left the tank running it hasn't cycled until these bacteria colonies are established. In every method, you can decorate the tank completely before you start the cycle (including live plants) as these will provide more surfaces on which the beneficial bacteria can grow. You'll also want to run your heater and filters as if fish were in the tank. Heated water promotes quicker bacteria growth and the filter is the main site of bacterial colonization in your tank.

-The "Fish In" Cycle

This is the least-preferred method of cycling. Essentially, it involves using live fish as your ammonia source. The benefit to this method is that you get to stock the tank immediately, but the problems associated with this method far outweigh that single benefit. Fish recommended for the "fish-in" cycle are usually hardy species but aren't always fish that you want to keep in your tank on a long-term basis so you have to deal with the hassle of removing them once the cycle is complete. Second, water changes must be performed on a regular basis (sometimes daily or even more often) in order to keep ammonia and nitrite levels low so that the fish you're using to cycle don't die. Finally, and most importantly, cycling with fish can be stressful or even deadly to the fish you're using to cycle. Unfortunately, many new aquarists are unaware of the aquarium cycle or its importance and are thus essentially forced to do a "fish-in" cycle. When using this method, you should only choose hardy species (zebra danios are a popular choice) in small numbers. Monitor ammonia and nitrite levels daily, performing water changes with a good water conditioner that neutralizes ammonia and nitrite (Seachem's Prime is a good choice) whenever ammonia or nitrite levels exceed 0.5 ppm (0.25ppm is an even safer number). After a few days the ammonia should spike. As the Nitrosomonas bacteria increase in number the ammonia level will start to peter out, replaced by nitrite. The Nitrospira bacteria will then start to grow but since these reproduce more slowly than Nitrosomonas, the nitrite portion of the cycle can take a deal longer than the ammonia portion. Eventually both ammonia and nitrite will continually test at 0 ppm and you'll start seeing a reading for nitrate. At this point the cycle is complete. It's usually best to wait a bit just to make sure there aren't any straggling ammonia or nitrite spikes but after some time you can begin adding more fish to the tank, a few fish every week or two until the tank is stocked. The most important part of the "fish-in" cycle are the ammonia and nitrite tests and the water changes that are needed whenever these readings rear their ugly heads.

-The "Fishless" Cycle using Fish Food

This method is preferred over cycling with fish but is not without its disadvantages. Instead of using live fish as the ammonia source, here we use fish food, which decays in the tank, to supply ammonia. Essentially, all you have to do is "feed" the tank with a pinch of fish food every day as if there were fish in the tank. The decaying food produces ammonia which then promotes the growth of Nitrosomonas bacteria and so on as above. The major benefit to cycling without fish is that no fish are harmed during the cycle and you can elect not to keep the hardy species often used for cycling purposes. Another benefit is that, without fish in the tank, there's no need to do large water changes during the cycle. Ammonia and nitrite can reach toxic levels without any worry as there are no fish in the tank. The disadvantages to using fish food are that it's a somewhat unreliable ammonia dosing method and it can take some tweaking until you're sure you're adding the right amount of food (i.e. enough to supply a moderate level of ammonia that can be measured). Also, as one might guess, it can leave quite a mess in your tank that needs to be cleaned up before fish can be added. The steps to the cycle itself are the same as cycling with fish; you'll see ammonia spike, followed by a nitrite spike along with a decrease in ammonia, eventually followed by both ammonia and nitrite staying at 0 while nitrate starts to climb. Once ammonia and nitrite are pegged at zero for at least a couple of days, you can do a gravel vac to remove the fish food waste and bring the nitrate down to a reasonable level (10-20 ppm or less). At that point you can begin slowly stocking the tank with fish.

*Nitrospira have only recently been identified as the nitrite oxidizing bacteria responsible for converting nitrite to nitrate in freshwater aquaria. Previously another nitrite oxidizing bacterium, Nitrobacter, was thought responsible. See this study for more information: Nitrospira-Like Bacteria Associated with Nitrite Oxidation in Freshwater Aquaria



 64 
 on: April 20, 2015, 11:29:59 am 
Started by squish - Last post by squish
Sometimes they don't like the flakes.

 65 
 on: March 10, 2011, 10:56:12 am 
Started by squish - Last post by squish
Flake foods and sometimes live.

 66 
 on: March 02, 2011, 12:29:38 pm 
Started by squish - Last post by OldFishKeeper
I use a lot of different things, but the staples are hikari pellets and flakes, otherwise i rotate, between blood worms, brine shrimp spirulina based flakes, mysis, which is really high in protein, and i always make sure there is a good supply of green algae growing on stuff so the fish can browse on that as the choose.

 67 
 on: February 25, 2011, 02:01:04 pm 
Started by squish - Last post by dekker
i use some flake and pellets also a use a bit of veg, cucumber, lettuce and de shelled peas too they love them.  Smiley

 68 
 on: February 19, 2011, 07:24:56 pm 
Started by squish - Last post by squish
Live or Dry food?

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